• Till or work ground to a depth of 4-6 inches.  If there is heavy clay, you may need to add lime and top soil.

  • Fertilize prepared ground with a 16-16-16 or 20-20-20 fertilizer at rate of five to ten pounds per thousand feet.

  • Rake and smooth the soil, removing any large clods, roots or rocks.  Level and roll soil for a firm flat surface.  Prewater the ground to prevent fertilizer burn and to aid in creating a firm surface.  Allow ground to dry before beginning to lay sod.When sod arrives, start laying sod as soon as possible to prevent burning.

  • Install sod by laying pieces tightly together in a brick like manner(see illustration above). Cover exposed edges of lawn with soil to prevent sod from drying. After all sod is in place, roll lawn lightly.

  • Water new lawn immediately and keep soil moist for the next two weeks to aid the root system in adapting to its new location.Weather conditions will determine the amount and frequency of watering. During warm weather, consistent water is critical.

  • Although your new lawn will look beautiful immediately, you should avoid heavytraffic on the lawn for two weeks.  At two weeks, begin to lessen water applications so the lawn can be mowed.  Mow at the 2 to 2.5 inch height and bring down to the 1.75 to 2 inch height level for long-term mowing care.
Long Term Care

  • Mow at 0.25" - 3" for Perennial Ryegrass and 2" - 3" for Tall Fescue

  • Water once a week to help deepen and strengthen root growth. An inch of water is adequate, except in very hot weather.

  • From March to October, fertilize about every six weeks using a fertilizer ratio of 20-5-20-10. Remember nitrogen makes the grass grow and the potash and sulfur help with color and disease resistance without the rate of growth associated with nitrogen. Once the sod is established, phosphorous is not needed in large amounts. Trace amounts of iron also helps with color and a reduction in moss in shaded areas.
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